Elspeth Beard’s Epic Solo Motorcycle Journey Around the World

Excerpts taken from Wild Chats Podcast with Elspeth Beard

In the early 1980s, Elspeth Beard did something few men had attempted. She packed her 1974 BMW R60/6 motorbike, boarded a plane to New York, and began a two-year, round-the-world journey. No GPS. No social media. No phone. Just a map or two, and the kindness of strangers.

Her journey from 1982–1984 took her across North America, New Zealand, Australia, Southeast Asia, India, Pakistan, Iran, Turkey, and Europe, covering tens of thousands of miles and reshaping her understanding of freedom, self-reliance, and what it means to live life on your own terms.

The spark that started her solo motorcycle tour around the world

After finishing her architecture studies and nursing a broken heart Elspeth felt lost. She had little money, no clear career path, and an overwhelming desire to get away. Having already ridden across the U.S. the year before, she wondered, “Could I actually ride a motorcycle around the world?”

With no Google to consult and no influencers to follow, she began working seven days a week in a London pub, earning just £1.75 an hour. Three months later, she’d saved £2,500…enough to set her dream in motion.

“It was a whole series of events that happened to me the following year… I met and fell in love with this guy and he finished our relationship about two or three months before my finals. I did really badly in my finals. So the summer of ’82 I was miserable. I was broken-hearted. I had a lousy degree and I thought I’ve got to get out of here. So, I thought I’m gonna see if I can ride my bike around the world…

I just wanted an adventure. I wanted to see the world. I loved riding my bike. I mean, I knew it wasn’t going to be easy. I knew it was going to be fairly tough, but I just needed a challenge, I suppose. I needed something to distract me from my pain and my broken heart and my lousy degree and what am I going to do with my life and all that kind of stuff, you know? I just needed a complete distraction, something to focus on, concentrate on, something I was going to have to really work hard. And to me, it seemed like the perfect thing to do.”

“If you wait for perfect, you never go. You’ll always find an excuse…the right bike, the right gear, the right amount of money. You just have to leave.”

Motorcycle Travel Before Google Maps

Travel in the 1980s was wonderfully uncertain. No digital maps, no blogs, no satellite data. You learned by doing or by asking. Elspeth’s strategy was simple: once she reached a new country, she’d ask locals what lay ahead. Each day unfolded with improvisation and trust.

“It was impossible to find out much about where you were going. I always tried, of course, but information was scarce. I’d wait until I was actually in a country and then start asking questions about the next one. What the roads were like, whether you could get petrol, what the food was like… anything at all. You really had to piece it together as you went.

You couldn’t plan much, if anything. And I think that’s something people today tend to overdo. There’s so much planning now, and it takes away a lot of the adventure. When you don’t know what’s ahead, where you’ll sleep, how far you’ll get, or what obstacles you’ll meet, each day feels more alive. You learn to deal with things as they come, moment by moment.

It made travel far more spontaneous, and to me, that was what made it a real adventure. Even though I still travel today, it’s never quite the same. I’m so grateful I got to experience that era of exploration, before everything was mapped, posted, and planned in advance.”

The Motorbike: 1974 BMW R60/6

Her bike, a 1974 BMW R60/6, was already eight years old with 45,000 miles on the clock. She spent her pub shift breaks stripping it down and learning the mechanics by heart. New seals, cables, tires, and a 5‑gallon long‑range tank gave it about 320 miles per fill. She even modified the fuel taps for a double reserve, a clever hack for long stretches between petrol stations.

When she shipped the bike to New York, she wasn’t just carrying luggage; she was carrying the weight of the possibility of an epic adventure and the trials and tribulations that go with that.

“I bought my 60/6, which was a BMW. It was a 1974, so it was already six years old when I bought her. But it was kind of that bike that made me realize you could seriously go places on this. You know, this was a serious bike. I didn’t really think about it as a bike to do long-distance traveling. I just kind of always wanted a BMW. In those days, there wasn’t this vast choice of motorcycles that you have now. You had the Brit bikes, which just leaked oil; you had the Jap bikes, which were all fairly new on the market and used to fall apart; and then, leagues ahead of that, you had the BMWs. I didn’t want a bike that I had to service all the time or spend half my life trying to keep oil in. I wanted something solid, reliable, German engineering. I like things that are tough and robust and I can rely on, that aren’t going to fall apart. So I just bought the BMW. And then I realised you could go anywhere on it.”

Travelling Across Continents and Climates by Motorcycle

Once her plan was set and she hit the road ready to make history. Her solo motorcycle adventure would take her across five continents, through extremes of weather, culture and endurance. Here’s how her around-the-world tour unfolded.

North America: New York to Niagara Falls, down to New Orleans, then across Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, and California. “I shipped my bike to New York first and then waited until I heard it had actually arrived before I got on my flight. I battled to get my bike out of customs in New York, then I just wanted to get out of the city and onto the open road. I headed north up to Canada, then all the way down to New Orleans and across the southern states - Texas, Arizona, New Mexico, California."

New Zealand & Australia: “When I arrived in Sydney, I had 50 pounds to my name. I worked two jobs for six months, an architect’s assistant by day, pub shifts by night, until I’d saved enough to continue. Then I rode from Sydney up the east coast, across the middle through Alice Springs, down to Port Augusta, and across the Nullarbor to Perth…For some reason I thought Australia would be easy riding into the sunset, a holiday almost but the Outback was one of the toughest parts of the trip. It was 52 degrees one day, flooding the next, kangaroos, flies, road trains, exhaustion.”

Southeast Asia: With limited ferry routes, she shipped the bike to Singapore, then rode through Malaysia and Thailand, reaching the Golden Triangle before backtracking and shipping to India.

India & the Himalayas: Riding up through Kashmir to Ladakh, Elspeth discovered her favorite landscape, stark, silent, and empty. “You could ride all day without seeing another vehicle. It was pure magic.”

Iran to Europe: In 1984, she crossed Pakistan into Iran, during the Iran-Iraq war, on a seven‑day transit visa. Despite fear and fatigue, she remembers Iranians as the kindest, most hospitable people she met. “They risked trouble just to share tea or food, but they insisted. The warmth was unforgettable.”

“Each continent was its own world, demanding something new from me, and from the bike.” By the time she reached Turkey, Greece, and finally London, she had learned a universal truth: people everywhere are far more generous than headlines suggest!

Coming Home After A Big Expedition

Back in London, Elspeth struggled to adjust. “People didn’t understand what I’d done. They didn’t get it.” She retreated for months, then rebuilt her bike from scratch, a kind of therapy. Eventually, she returned to architecture, later buying and converting a disused water tower into her award‑winning home and studio.

That boldness, the same drive that pushed her across continents, became the foundation of a thriving 25‑year architectural career.

“When I got back, I really did struggle. For some bizarre reason, I thought people were going to be vaguely interested in what I’d done but of course they weren’t at all. I don’t know whether it was lack of interest; I just think they couldn’t understand it. They couldn’t relate to it. Back then, people didn’t do trips like that. There was really nobody I could talk to, nobody who could understand what I was talking about. I got home and got really depressed for quite a long time. I locked myself in a basement for about six months. Then I managed to drag myself out, stripped my bike down, rebuilt it, and decided to go back to uni to finish my architecture degree.

The trip completely changed my life. I was a totally different person when I came back. Having gone through all that, I felt I could do anything, nobody could tell me no. When the council said I’d never get planning permission to turn the water tower into a house, I thought, ‘Yeah, you will.’ I took risks, I pushed forward, and it worked. Nothing is impossible if you’ve got time, belief, and a bit of grit.”

The Biggest Lessons From 2 Years on the Road

Start before you’re ready. You’ll never have perfect conditions.
Know your tools. Learn basic repairs, make sure you are your own mechanic.
Embrace uncertainty. Plans are useful, but flexibility is freedom.
Keep simple rules. Don’t ride at night. Trust your instincts.
Record your story. Elspeth kept journals and even micro‑cassette recordings to capture her thoughts.
Turn NO’s into fuel to drive your goals.
Expect tough returns. Post‑adventure blues are real. Find a new purpose fast.

“The hardest part is leaving. After that, everything gets easier...Once you’ve crossed deserts on a motorcycle, red tape feels easy...” - Elspeth Beard

The Legacy of a Motorcycle Travel Pioneer

Decades later, Elspeth’s 2017 book ‘Lone Rider’ reignited her story for a new generation of riders and dreamers. Today, she still rides her original BMW, gives talks around the world, and reminds anyone listening that adventure isn’t about distance, it’s about decision.

"Two of the biggest risks I ever took were riding my bike around the world and buying the water tower that everyone said could never be turned into a home. It took seven years to restore, and I won architectural awards for it. That project led me to start my own practice, which I’ve now run for twenty-five years.

My book Lone Rider came out thirty-five years after the trip, and it’s opened up a whole new chapter talks, book tours, meeting people who’ve been inspired to go on their own adventures. When I set out, I had no idea it would lead to any of this. All I knew was I wanted to see the world on two wheels. That decision to just get out and do it became the thing that shaped everything that came after.”

Final Thoughts

Elspeth’s story is a compass for anyone craving a real adventure, whether you’re planning on hitting the road, or just daydreaming about it. She didn’t wait for permission or perfect timing, she simply packed up and left. In doing so, she proved that adventure isn’t defined by luxury or likes. It’s defined by curiosity, courage, and a willingness to just take the first step and get out there. If her story sparked something in you, don’t ignore it, make a plan and hit the road. Listen to the Wild Chats podcast for more.

For more on Elspeth’s incredible journey, her books, or speaking engagements, visit her website at www.ElspethBeard.com. You’ll also find the latest photos and updates on Instagram: @elspethbeard

Best Wild Earth Gear For Motorcycle Travel

A durable, weather-resistant travel rucksack or duffel (that can double as carry-on)
Dry bags or waterproof sacks (crucial for motorcycling in wet/dusty climates)
High-performance base layers and outer layers (because of varied climates)
Versatile travel shoes/boots (that ride well off-bike)
Multi-purpose toiletries/travel hygiene gear
Secure travel wallet/pouch (for documents, passport, cash)
Compact power banks/solar charger (if you’ll be in remote areas)
Lightweight first-aid/repair kit (especially for self-care)

FAQs About Riding Around The World By Motorcycle

Q: Was it dangerous to travel solo as a woman?
A: Elspeth managed risk with awareness: avoiding night rides, dressing modestly, and trusting her instincts. Most encounters were defined by kindness, not danger.

Q: How did she navigate without GPS?
A: By asking locals in every country, taking notes, and adjusting daily. Flexibility was her map.

Q: What motorcycle should I take for riding around the world?
A: The best bike is often the one you know and trust. For long-distance motorcycle travel, consider a dependable adventure touring bike that balances comfort, reliability, and off-road capability. A mid-sized bike is often preferred for managing weight and repairs in remote areas.

Q: Do I need a special license to ride a motorcycle in other countries, including Australia?
A: Yes. For most international travel, you will need your home country's valid motorcycle license and an International Driving Permit (IDP). When riding a motorcycle in Australia, you can generally use your international license/IDP for a set period, but check the specific state/territory rules as they can vary.

Q: Is a Carnet de Passage en Douanes (CPD) required for motorcycle travel?
A: A Carnet de Passage is an international customs document that acts as a passport for your vehicle. It is required for temporary importation into many countries across the Middle East, Africa, Asia, and South America to avoid paying import duty. It is not typically required for entry into Australia, North America, or Western Europe.

Q: How much does a round-the-world motorcycle trip cost?
A: The cost for a round-the-world motorcycle trip varies hugely based on your travel style (camping vs. hotels), route, and duration. A rough estimate can range from $50 to $150 per day excluding the initial bike/gear purchase and major shipping expenses. Shipping/air freight is often the single most expensive factor.

Q: What type of motorcycle travel insurance do I need?
A: You need two types:
1. Personal Travel Insurance: This is vital. It must cover emergency medical expenses and repatriation, specifically including coverage for motorcycle riding (check for engine size restrictions!).
2. Motorcycle Insurance: Third-party liability insurance is often mandatory in most countries. You'll usually buy this locally at the border or through a regional provider (like the Green Card system in Europe).

Q: What are the main hazards when riding a motorcycle in Australia?
A: Key hazards when motorcycle touring Australia include: Fatigue on long, remote straight roads; Wildlife (especially kangaroos and emus at dawn/dusk); Extreme Weather (intense heat, flooding); and the vast distances between services in the Outback.

Q: How do I handle border crossings and customs with my motorcycle?
A: Organisation is key. Always have copies of your passport, license, registration, title, and Carnet de Passage (if needed) ready. Research the specific border procedures and required visas before you arrive. Patience is your most important tool!

Q: What essential spares should I pack for a global motorcycle trip?
A: Essential spares should include things unique to your bike or prone to failure: Oil filter, spare spark plug, puncture repair kit (or spare tubes), fuses, a spare clutch and throttle cable, and a small selection of high-wear fasteners. Knowing how to change tires and oil is crucial.

Not sure what gear you need for your adventure? Chat with our friendly team of Outdoor Gear Specialists in-store or online today, and don’t forget to share your adventures with us on Instagram by tagging @wildearthaustralia in your next post.